Written by Chris Fellini with photography by Joshua Fitzwater
If they play their cards right, Toast will be the spot to hang at in the upcoming summer. The big if here is what they do with their giant patio space. When we went, they hadn’t added tables or finished it; hopefully that changes. Upon stepping inside, I’m immediately taken aback by the attention these guys paid to decor. From the candles stashed into all the open chunks in the brick wall to the side bars with columns made out of bookstacks, this place just feels cool. With only a few booths, the island bar does wonders to add extra standing room. The kitchen is completely open, separated only by a beautiful brick archway that is original to the building.
onion jam and the egg salad
We saunter up to the bar, directly across the room from the working pay phone. The drink list is limited, which is understandable, but there’s still plenty to please. I start with the onion jam and the egg salad. The oil on the onion jam bread makes the snack too greasy for me, but may be perfect for someone who’s imbibed a bit too much and needs to soak up some of that booze. The egg salad with kimchi pesto is a refreshing take on an old classic.Slightly sweet and spicy, it is the perfect “entree” for the night. I close the meal with the ice cream. Toast makes their own ice cream, a fact to be noted as the ice cream is far richer and creamier (not to mention, lacking in that frostbitten taste) than the usual stuff. The only thing that falls a little flat is the bread, which adds a grittiness due to the crumbs.
Fitz and I returned a second time with Nichole Ashikis. This time, we sat at the low benches next to the booths. The use of tree stumps as small tables is the kind of creative repurposing one has come to expect from the minds behind Field Guide and Handsome Biscuit. With three of us, it was easier to order many of the items we passed on the first time. The standout for me was the chicken confit with raspberry jam and yellow curry butter. The blend of sweet, with a touch of spice, and the rich fattiness of the chicken were a pleasure. Because Toast confits the chicken, it falls apart to the bite. Fitz was all about the caviar, which updates a classic with the substitution of sour cream for cream cheese. The tomato toast isn’t just a go-to vegetarian option. It packs a full flavor punch, and the use of tomato jam and red curry butter in place of sliced tomatoes is a welcomed revision to what is essentially a caprese.
caviar and sour cream
As we settle up at the bar, I am left thinking about two things. The first is that, aesthetically speaking, the space looks like no other in Norfolk. Its welcoming to be in a place with so many little details to take in. Not only that, but this feels like somewhere I really want to hang out at for more than just a couple drinks. The other thing I’m thinking about is that I just paid $15 for a beer and three dishes. Everything on the menu is under $10, with several items in the $2-3 range, and this is good food. Obviously they’re still tweaking the menu, but nobody is offering things like caviar or chicken confit, not to mention house made ice cream, for less than $10. With it’s close proximity to Ghent, I can only imagine that Toast will be packed come summertime. Maybe I’ll see you there, and we can cheers to Toast.
Toast is located at 2406 Colonial Avenue Norfolk, VA
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