Article by Rachel Fabian Mace
Lead illustration by Angelina Maureen
Recently I visited a few local Hampton Roads ice cream shops, including Doumar’s, the landmark drive-up, a Norfolk trademark since 1904. The brightly lit car port and walk-out attendants transported me to a different era. Not to mention the friendly service and the prices commensurate for a time decades ago. The burgers, barbeque, and ice cream, however, were in league with the local fast food chains that adorned the surrounding corners—including McDonald’s and Wendy’s. Apart from their signature waffle cones, the food quality and taste were well below any venue worth calling a city’s pride and joy. So, what drew the masses here? What made people continue to visit and recommend it to their friends as a “must see”? Why did people recommend Doumar’s over the other local ice cream shops with higher product standards, quality, and taste, like Gilly’s or Bergey’s to name a few?
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The answer was clear after visits to these local shops: the ambiance, the atmosphere, the experience, and the tradition. People are sentimental. As soon as I pulled into Doumar’s car port, warm memories flooded back to me of the special childhood moments when my mom and I visited the local Woolworth, and I ordered a grilled cheese and fries after school at their diner counter. The food at Doumar’s, though lackluster in taste, was the perfect blend of comfort and grease—consistent with any childhood comfort food diet. At Doumar’s, the way servers walked out to greet customers and the way they attached the condiment tray to the side of the car door was one-of-a-kind. The experience was quite charming. The warm smiles in such a quaint, old-timey atmosphere made me feel like I wanted to be there, and that I trusted what they were serving. Not to mention the convenient locale in the center of town close to the interstate, late night hours, and cheap prices that most local ice cream shops did not share.
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Dining experiences span more than the palate—they are an experience for the soul. And often times, people enjoy their food based on the feeling it gives them, or the atmosphere, rather than just the taste of the food. Doumar’s is living proof.
Doumar’s is located at 1919 Monticello Ave in Norfolk. Gilly’s is located at the Virginia Beach Farmers Market 3640 Dam Neck Road in Virginia Beach. Bergey’s is located at 2207 Mount Pleasant Road in Chesapeake.
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