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Sous Life with Paul Benton

By Southern Grit · On May 30, 2016


Article and photography by Fitz

Lead photo of Sous Chef Paul Benton (left) with Owner/Chef Eric Heilig (right front) during service at Eat

For eleven years, Paul Benton’s been the man behind the man who’s helped elevate food in Virginia Beach. Before Commune or Esoteric, Eat began advancing the culinary landscape by practicing a from scratch kitchen approach. Today, owner Erick Heilig is one of the most important chefs locally and Benton helped him get there.

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Benton cooking during service at Eat

Down to the cracker you might nibble on at Eat, if it’s bread, Sous Chef Paul Benton made it in house. Sure, he would have a lot more time in his life if he didn’t do it that way, but, the baking program at Eat is one of the ways he’s been helping to shape Virginia Beach dining for the better. Inspired by acclaimed Baker Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery & Cafe in San Francisco, if Benton isn’t in the kitchen then he is tucked away in a small room behind the pantry room, his hands, arms, apron and brow white with flour.

In the kitchen, when Benton’s cooking, he and Heilig move with a speed and synchronization you’ll scarcely find locally and indebted to the decade plus the two have spent together in the kitchen. Before their waltz of tickets, proteins, produce, plates and flames can begin however, Benton always starts his day in the wait station with a triple espresso followed by a few glances at the ocean. Though he was born in Chesapeake, Benton unquestionably identifies as a beach kid.

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Locally roasted specialty coffees conveniently located at 2945 Shore Drive in Virginia Beach. For More on Lynnhaven Coffee Roasters click HERE or the flier above

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During the rush, Benton’s eyes move between three points in the kitchen. First, the food ticket orders, of which he’s memorized the table and order numbers, helping him get out the gate fast in terms of cooking time. Second, his eyes, now slits from the flames and steam, follow each flip, sear and glaze his hands produce while working the food. Finally, Benton’s eyes hit the expediting table. Not to critique Heilig’s final edit, wipe and garnish, but, because for Benton, “The final plate is a reflection of the self and must be the best it can be.”

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“The Hasselhoff” (left) and the “Fire & Ice”, togarashi tuna taki ap (right)

Benton’s been with Heilig from jump street raising the standards for what good local food can be. In terms of the menu at Eat, Benton helped create The Hasselhoff, arguably the best local artisan burger and available years before the trend took hold. He created the Fire & Ice, togarashi tuna taki ap, one of the most inspired seafood plates found at the beach. Most paramount however, Benton’s been the workhorse driving Heilig’s substantial from scratch approach to food before the top chef generation made it cool.

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Benton watching the expediting during service at Eat

For more on Paul Benton and Eat visit them HERE

 

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Southern Grit is a food publication based in Virginia and aims to open up an honest dialogue about food in the south. Each issue is themed, but don’t expect the usual recipes and reviews. Everyone eats and everyone has a lot to say about food. Join us in the conversation.

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