Article by Josh Gregory
Photos by Fitz (unless otherwise credited)
Lead photo of Ross Riddle in the Hashi Truck
The Hampton Roads culinary scene has always been slightly off kilter in its best iteration. At its worst, it’s a place where mediocrity is rewarded based upon an advertising budget. I’m not going to name names. You know who you are. You’re on our list. The exceptions to the rule have been rewarded for their efforts by an ever present group of Millennials, in search of establishments pushing forward our cemented in its ways food scene. As the first generation chefs, the pioneers, spend more time on their boats and vacation, the second generation is here, nudging us forward. Leading the way is a 2006 Freightliner MT45, whose name, of all things, means bridge, or as we’ve come to know it, Hashi.
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For more on Ghent’s Old-Fashioned sweet shop visit them online HERE or give them a ring at 757-390-4282
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The more I spend time around him, the more I’m convinced, Ross Riddle could have been anything he wanted to be. Poet laureate of our culinary culture, from the back of a truck, he’s using ingredients that are impeccably sourced, with technique that’s as flawless as it is simple. He carries the pedigree that demands attention, and were it for anyone with less humility, a restaurant that would center around ego and dishes that ride on the coattails of marginally more accomplished mentors.
As anyone who’s eaten at Hashi can attest, the food is simple. I don’t mean easy or dumbed down, just simple. He’s using a small handful of ingredients that have been futzed with as little as possible. When I told Fitz, my editor, that the congee bowl I had last Summer was the best thing I had eaten in Virginia Beach last year, the look I got back was confused. Standing in the street at the Old Beach Farmer’s market, trying to juggle a pickle boat, and a rice bowl, I was unaware that in reality I was holding the history of the Hampton Roads food scene in my hands. While other publications have detailed Ross’ work history, it’s impossible for me not to touch on it, if for no other reason than to show why Ross is the most important chef in Hampton Roads today.
The Hashi Congee Bowl
Of all the places it could have started, it had to be Mizuno’s. A place that this publication and writer has had a difficult relationship with. Everyone from Ross, to Syd Meers, to Patrick Evans-Hylton have extolled the glory of the sushi at Mizuno. I don’t get it, but I don’t have to. What’s of absolute certainty is that Ross started his career there and one has to wonder if his exceptional attention to detail didn’t start to percolate from there.
Riddle with Chef Bobby Huber (left) and Chef Todd Jurich (right)- photos provided by Riddle
Huber, Jurich, McGann- Ross spent time in the kitchens of the chefs that, for better or worse, began to shape the culinary scene of Hampton Roads in an era well before Top Chef and the Food Network. A scene that in some circles is still revered, as if we’re scared to move on to something new, for the irrational fear of some sort of culinary apocalypse. Spending time with top tier chefs, the opportunity is ever present for learning.
Riddle making the congee bowl
Tricks, tips, habits- Enough time spent in any kitchen, a hot and confined space, and one will learn many examples of what to-do, and in other cases examples of what not to do. Sitting with Ross over a beer, he shared stories of rolling out pizza dough for Bobby Huber (the kitchen where he acquired the moniker “Sushi Rossy”), wine dinners at Todd Jurich’s, and the kindness of Sam McGann while dealing with the great loss of his parents. The loss that led to the foundation of Hashi.
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Ghent’s Old-Fashioned sweet shop debuts their newest creation, HUMDINGERS, this Friday! Visit The Bonbonnier at 913 W 21st St in Norfolk to grab one before they sell out! To learn more about The Bonbonnier visit them online HERE
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When Fitz asked me to write about Ross, and Hashi, I struggled. To put pen to paper about someone as earnest and accomplished as Ross, what was there to be said that hasn’t already? Chef’s are notorious for talking shit about each other behind their backs. I hear it consistently, partially because sometimes I ask, and partially because I’m lucky enough to be part of the club, still spending fifty plus hours a week behind the stove myself (don’t worry guys you’re secrets are safe). Yet, I haven’t found a single chef that would dare utter a single unkind word about Ross and Hashi. Looking back at the rice bowls, the hash and the congee, one can see his career summarized in food. Visible are the lessons from Mizuno, Jurich, Huber and McGann. Present, our culinary history, what we should do and shouldn’t. It’s where we’ve been, where we’re going, and most importantly the bridge that’s going to take us there.
For more on Riddle and Hashi visit:
2 Comments
Awesome article. Ross riddle is the man!!
I knew Ross when he was running around his house in diapers. It’s great to see him doing so well and so well regarded among his peers.