Written by Chris Fellini with photography by Joshua Fitzwater
If Ferran Adria opened a modernist pub it might look like Saint Germain. From the liquid nitrogen-coated heirloom popcorn to the cotton candy, everything on the menu is worlds beyond what’s being done in the area. The cocktails are beautifully crafted twists on classics, utilizing ingredients such as dry ice and sea salt foam. Even the coffee comes via a vacuum coffee maker, a device dating back to the 1800s but currently experiencing a revival.
Lulu Martin, bar manager at Saint Germain, and boyfriend David Hledik, executive chef, met in the kitchen of Sobou, a Commander’s Palace restaurant in New Orleans. They moved to Norfolk to help Hledik’s sister, Tiffany Kidwell-Gaylord, open a new restaurant on Granby Street Kidwell-Gaylord owned Havana’s before it closed but wanted to reinvent the space and thought her brother would be perfect for the job.
Bar Manager Lulu Martin
They came here with grand ideas for what the space could be. Martin talks about how they originally envisioned a more modernist concept, but realized the area wasn’t quite ready for it. “You’ve got to turn people onto the classics before you begin reinventing them,” she says.
Hair Bell
Upon stepping inside, you first notice the beautiful birdcage chandeliers and the dark walls with gold trim. The space is essentially a long hallway with a dining room in the front half and a bar running to the kitchen. The staff hurriedly moves about, attending to their guests and adorned in thick denim butcher’s aprons.
Truffle-ufugus
Hledik brings out the beet frill course, which is all presentation. Everything is strategically laid out on the plate like an abstract painting. Although very pleasing to eat and even more pleasing to look at, the beet dish only begins to set the stage for what is to come.
Charcuterie: Lamb merguez, chorizo, beef tongue pastrami, head cheese, trout rillette
The real show stealer is the house charcuterie. The lamb merguez has a crunchy skin with a nice salty and spicy flavor. The beef tongue pastrami melts on the tongue and pairs sublimely with the house-made mustard and pickles. The head cheese and rillette, too, were exceptional. To bring everything full circle are the myriad of accompaniments that go with each board. From the house saltines to the pickled mustard seed, everything Saint Germain offers on their boards sets them apart from anything else locally available.
vacuum siphon coffee
The cocktails are much more down to earth than the food. Martin showcases classic cocktails, some recipes dating back to the 1800s. The drink menu will focus on gin and rum, though it won’t shy away from other liquors. Some of the drinks are whimsical, such as the Huntress. Others are serious representations of vintage drinks, such as the Rubicon, which balances the botanicals of gin with maraschino liqueur.
Saint Germain has the potential to truly expand our food horizons in Hampton Roads. It only depends on whether the diners of the area are willing to take a worthy risk.
Saint Germain is located at 255 Granby St. Norfolk, VA
No Comments