Intros by Leslie Davis/ Picks by Davis, Fitz, Dennis Cayton
Illustration by Will Bailey/ Photos by Fitz and Cayton
Like the grizzly bear, I am an omnivore. It can be a deer or a dandelion, as long it tastes good, I’ll eat it. I see food as one of the many great adventures we partake of in life. The journey is just as much about what is discovered as what is left behind. Without the meat, we are left to praise the potato (but that is another article). My introduction to vegetarian food was the long defunct Terra Nova, a health food store with a café. Its demise left a marinated portobello sandwich shaped hole in my heart. For the moment let’s set aside braised adobo pork belly and let the plants shine. In the adventure of life, we shouldn’t forget the vegetables. Here are some of the best vegetable based dishes your taste buds can explore in Norfolk. -Leslie Davis
Vegetarian Fare:
1) Veggie Mishali- Cilantro Bangladeshi Bistro
This modest family business is a culinary gem that is easy to pass by if you are not looking for it. Mom is literally in the kitchen bringing the flavor of home-style Bangladeshi cooking to Norfolk. This is what guests are served at a dawat (dinner party), in their home. And the family says every day is a dawat at Cilantro. The manager suggested Veggie Mishali. It is a mélange of zucchini, cauliflower, new potato, butternut squash and green beans sautéed with aromatic spices that have been toasted and ground in house. The flavor packed into these veggies is vibrant, complex, balanced and topped off with a little heat. This warmth also extends to the sunny marigold yellow imparted on the dish from the spices. The fragrant steamed jasmine rice is well seasoned and has the happy addition of fried onions. This meal is perfectly paired with parata. Parata is what would happen if naan and a croissant had a baby. –Davis
2) Phở Chay- Pho 79 in Ghent
Ask someone to name a Vietnamese dish and he or she will most likely say pho. And when I asked where to find a good meal I was told to try the vegetarian version at Pho 79. This variant of the often beef based dish consists of thin white rice noodles in a steaming hot vegetable broth heaping with carrots, broccoli, mushrooms, chayote (a kind of squash) and fried tofu. A plate of lime wedges, bean sprouts, fresh basil and jalapeños accompanies the order so that it can be enhanced according to personal taste. Unadorned, the broth is slightly sweet but admittedly lacking in richness compared to its beefy brethren. With a dash of Sriracha or hoisin sauce it makes for a quick, filling and satisfying meal to melt the winter chill from tired over- worked bones. Even the small bowl is a generous portion. –Davis
3) Black Bean Burger- F.M.C. Garden Cafe
Full Metal Chef Brandon Morrison is not playing around with this burger alternative. This super-sized black bean behemoth is made to order daily. Starting with two thirds smashed black beans for the base, Morrison then adds garlic, salt, diced onions, bell peppers, along with flour and eggs whites plus more black beans, to bind together this tasty vegetable patty. Texturally, the patty, dense and nicely singed on the outside, produces a rather nice bite through the Kaiser roll. It’s both easy and delicious to offset some of the carbs by pairing this beast with a side of steamed fresh market veggies. Be not afraid fellas to order this amongst your crew. It’s for sure a man’s meal. -Fitz
4) Fried Green Tomato Sandwich– Supper Southern Morsels
Dredged in a cornstarch slurry before being battered in cornmeal and Supper’s house made seasoning, this fried green tomato aims to please. For some added zing, a tomato aioli, consisting in part of Dukes mayo and garlic, tops this fried bad boy. Finally, goat cheese is sprinkled on this juicy southern fried stable before being stuck between a brioche bun. Paired with Supper’s thick cut fries, also featuring their house-made seasoning, you’ll need to bring your appetite. It’s a gluttonous sandwich. –Fitz
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Vegan cuisine is often stigmatized as being flavorless bunny food. Having suffered through many processed prepackaged abominations marketed to vegans, I understand this bias. A few years ago I was invited to a vegan Thanksgiving and I can’t say I’m fond of Tofurkey. Truthfully, some tastes and textures are difficult to achieve without the use of animal products unless you happen to be a scientific genius. Different doesn’t mean bad though. I’ve also had a fantastic chef get me to actually love eating lima beans due to his culinary magic. His creative combinations and seasoning made me forget that it was not the usual butter filled fare I nosh on. It was not just good vegan food, it was simply good. Whether you eat like a rabbit, want to try something new, or have somebunny special to share a meal with, here are a few selections to nibble on in Norfolk.
Vegan Fare:
1) Citrus Rice Bowl- Lemongrass Grille Ghent
Lemongrass Grille can be described as fast casual Asian fusion. It’s kind of like Chipotle in style of service. You start with a base of rice, noodles or salad. Then you pick a protein, veggie, sauce and toppings to create a unique combination of flavors. I selected a citrus rice bowl with ponzu marinated tofu, sesame broccoli, toasted coconut, coconut ginger sauce, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime. None of the flavors overpowered each other. The tofu was firm and had a nice flavor to it. The décor is a bit boring, but atmosphere isn’t what fills an empty belly. –Davis
2) Kale Salad- Zeke’s Norfolk
When it comes to kale salad, I’ve never had one that I’ve enjoyed more than this one. The diverse array of ingredients– kale, cucumber, carrot, sesame oil, shoyu, avocado, sesame seeds, green onion, pickled ginger, almond, raisin, brown rice– created a virtual explosion of different flavors and textures in my mouth. The kale tasted fresh, vibrant, and exhibited a healthy dark green hue. One ingredient that really made this dish sing to me was the pickled ginger with its spicy zing. The brown rice layered at the bottom provided extra fiber and flavor with its nutty texture. I felt energized when I finished this dish. It’s the perfect upper after a hard Y.M.C.A. workout. –Dennis Cayton
3) Hummus and Veggie Wrap- The Ten Top
Substantial in size, this wrap is packed with a flavorful veggie medley. It features divinely roasted peppers swimming in a herbaceous hummus! One of the more filling vegan options you’ll find in Norfolk, order this velvety wrap the next time you got a seriously empty stomach aching for considerable relief. –Fitz
4) Pimento Island Bistro and Rum Bar- Yellow Gold
Pimento’s chickpeas are melt-in-your mouth tender and delicious. The Caribbean style curry covers them like a warm blanket, oozing with a deep yet subtly spiced flavor profile. The coconut rice and beans provide a nice combination of flavor and texture. Choose the collards for the side. You’ll find them most refreshing, with their firm and leafy green texture, as they are never overcooked. –Cayton
Keep and eye out for PART TWO early next year as we venture into Virginia Beach for some of our favorite Vegetarian and Vegan picks!
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