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Leading the way in “Surprising” Suffolk, Harper’s Table shines

By Southern Grit · On April 20, 2015

Article by Jimmy Arnold with photography by Joshua Fitzwater

A simple, clever image resembling a table and chair marks the entrance on the semi-vacant Main St in Suffolk. On this warm spring evening as we entered Harper’s Table we were greeted with the sound of softly playing classic blues, a nice compliment to the re-purposed decor. For instance, one of the very first things you see is the original Coca Cola ad mural, a company that has been in Norfolk for over a hundred years. The mural, circa the 1890’s has been preserved for posterity behind the bar. The story goes that it had once been the side of a building, open to an alleyway and was closed in to join buildings. The bar itself is made from planks of wood that were the sole support for the storefront when owner Harper Bradshaw first began renovating the space. Exposed brick and Edison style lamps that are popular in modern retro decor aren’t quite as ordinary when paired with the work of Black Creek Workshop, LLC; who made their booths with wood sourced from Suffolks’ renowned Planters Peanut Factory, that was opened in 1913 and closed it’s doors in the 1980’s. One only need to consider the thought and care that went into the ambience of this establishment to know that you are in for an experience. There is also something to be said for having a knowledgeable staff. It was very refreshing to have a server that was able to answer most questions about the origins of the decor and the food readily.

(above- pork belly biscuits and lambs belly)

Among the first selections was a crawdad bisque. The shellfish, served in a small cast iron skillet along side the soup itself was seasoned with a light garlic flavor that fused very nicely with the more buttery bisque, creating a much richer, almost exotic flavor. Their “signature” Pork Belly topped with a crisp slice of cucumber & served on a small, very buttery biscuit; while very tasty, was not the brightest star in this galaxy. I would rate their pork steak, described as having the quality of pulled pork, only sliced into a steak, higher on the scale. It was savory and tender as described. This is really good stuff, but that was about the time Harper and his team pulled out all the stops… just two words: Lamb’s Belly. Perfectly seared, served atop finely julienned carrot and bean sprouts that provided just the right amount of crunch against the fork tender lamb. This was really special. True to form, one of the reasons that it is special is that it was raised here in Patrick Springs, Virginia by Shepherd Craig Rodgers of Border Springs Farm. Time and time again, it goes back to this care and concern for the source of the food to begin with. Like the Sorghum they use on the confections, made by Muddy Pond Mills in Monterey, Tennessee. It was thicker than we tend to see in most. The consistency is more like honey and the flavor is much fuller than is typical.

(above- hush puppies with Muddy Pond Mills Sorghum and an old fashion)

The toughest part for me tends to be desserts. I know, right? In my defense, I lean more to the mixologist in terms of dessert because of my lacking sweet tooth. That being said, I scream (you scream?) Yes, you will all scream over this house made Ice Cream. Like we have said in the South for generations, “It’ll make you wanna slap your Grandma” it’s so good. Of the flavors I sampled before I took leave of my senses, the Chocolate IPA, a beer and chocolate infused Ice Cream.. I think I could have died right then with a smile on my face. Closely followed by an Irish Cream that was very true to form, Strawberry that tasted field fresh and a not so orange sherbet. Consider yourself warned, you’ll never want ice cream from a container again. Harper and his team were gracious, in spite of our surprise visit at the end of their night. It takes a trailblazer to open a spot this progressive in the center of an up and coming city center, especially one that is still only slowing attracting complimentary businesses. We along with Harper all hope that he is joined by many more great neighbors soon. Then Suffolk will come as no surprise.

(below- in house ice cream plate)