Alt Food Media Darling David “Regular Chef” Hannah Presses His Career Forward

Article and photography of Hannah by Fitz

Lead photo- Hannah preparing for Sunday Brunch at Press 626

“Ketchup is dead.”

These were the first words Press 626’s new Executive Chef David Hannah told me when I asked him about his line of jams. As I spread his “Regular Chef” tomato jam on the brisket sandwich he’d just whipped up after our photo shoot ― well, let’s just say I was a bit skeptical of his assertion. Nouvelle’s house-made ketchup holds a special place in my heart, afterall. However, after I took a bite, the way the complex sweet notes in the jam complimented the salty and savory taste of the brisket was undeniable. This sweet and savory interplay reminded me of the Saint Germain bar burger and it’s sweet onion jam. So is ketchup dead? No. But did I buy a jar of Hannah’s tomato jam and immediately put it on a burger when I got home? Yes!

Chef Hannah during Sunday Brunch at Press 626

After being a six-year Sous Chef under Chef Alvin Williams’ tutelage (of Cobalt Grille), Hannah and his jams first came on my radar via the alt media duo Nomarama Burger Club’s inaugural web episode. He was featured making burgers using meat from Pendulum and pairing it with his jams ― of which he brought to many of Cobalt’s artisan burgers during his time there. Over the last few years, Hannah has simultaneously built a cult following with alt media food journalists and foodies alike in Hampton Roads for his blue-collar, American-pub style exploits, as well as honing his skills while crafting fine European-esque cuisine under Williams. Hannah additionally credits Williams for teaching him, “How to move in a kitchen.”

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At only age 29, becoming the executive chef at Press is a step up for Hannah who informed me, “During the last two years I’ve focused on being more expressive. I want to be more modern than I could at Cobalt.” Self-expression in fact facilitated his moniker ‘Regular’ in his youth ― he being an unassuming guy rockin‘ pairs of loud kicks (shoes). As an adult he’s followed the exploits of Chefs Marcus Samuelsson and Sean Brock nationally. Locally, he sees Steve Marsh (LeGrand) and Kevin Ordonez (Alkaline) as influences.

Hannah’s “Regular Chef” Tomato Jam (photo provided by Hannah)

Having full knowledge of Chef Marsh’s, Estero’s (Nouvelle) and Hledik’s (Saint Germain) culinary work ― all of which are happening in close proximity to Press ― Hannah is well aware of the high bar for what serious eaters in Ghent expect. In Hannah’s own words: “It’s more competitive here in Ghent these days. You gotta step up your game and be more inventive. You have to stand out as a chef.”

Hannah sources local, respecting the ethos of the ingredients of his dishes (reminiscent of his friend Chef Hagen at HomeGrown in Olde Towne Portsmouth), which promises to be the foundation he’ll pull from to be distinctive at Press. In the works Hannah’s already coming up with an in-house hot sauce for the restaurant. He and Sous Chef Mike Swoveland also have recently debuted some inventive burgers on Tuesdays.

Hannah informed me that he’s very optimistic about the young staff he inherited. He looks forward to fostering “creative experimentation” with them. Ultimately, however, it may be the bellies of Ghent that gain most from Hannah taking the reigns at Press.

For more on Hannah’s jam’s visit etsy.com/shop/regularchefjams

For More on Press 626 visit press626.com