Article and photography by Fitz
I have been following Nic and Hope’s efforts at their restaurant Homegrown intently for the last few years. I’ve been doing so because they follow an ethos that both deserves respect and distinguishes their food in Portsmouth. Some may not know it though because there are a lot who claim to make food like Nic but in practice don’t. In Hampton Roads these days, there are a plethora of restaurants that profess to be from farm to table. In actually, however, there are some leading the way like the Hagen’s, some dabbling in it, and many others fronting while riding the wave of the food movement in order to pad their pockets. By the way, I should mention that the Hagen’s are actually practicing farm to table, an approach which isn’t always kind on your bottom line, while in a concentrated and limited market.
Nic and Hope Hagen on the patio at Homegrown
At a time when restaurants like 1608 in Virginia Beach have found success pairing scratch-made locally sourced food with large craft beer selections, the Hagen’s are positioned next to the premier place for beer in Olde Towne, the Bier Garden. So should they want to bring a craft beer program in, the competition for that market would be immense. Then across the street is Humboldt, a utility pizza heaven with big screens and a good craft beer selection themselves. Nic’s pizza, with dough made from scratch and sporting only the finest locally sourced and house-made toppings, destroys Humboldt’s in taste. In Olde Towne, though, when one hears pizza, they think Humboldt. Then there is Still, with both a considerable spirits program and, despite this author’s published opinions, small plates that are considered high end; that niche–fine dining–is also filled. Put all that together, add in the Midtown tunnel toll and it makes sense that the Hagen’s, at times, wear their feelings both on their faces and pages. They are fighting for survival.
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For more on the inspired street food at Streats, visit them online HERE or click the flier above!
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When I met with Hope for this article and asked her about her role at Homegrown, she responded first with, “I put the home in Homegrown.” It’s a catchy line but one I think rooted more in cheekiness than actuality. If I were looking for a snazzy line more fitting, I would say Hope puts the Grown in Homegrown. As in she’s a grown ass woman who gets shit done.
I know, that sounds crass but while she spoke to me of her inviting and open disposition, I couldn’t help but think that wasn’t an accurate representation of her fighter mentality. In truth, Hope’s always struck me as blunt. Illustrated at times with her opinions on social media, she’s been known to share her experience in customer relations at the restaurant along with the struggles of being a small business owner.
If I were to use the home analogy to describe Hope then, she reminds me of a mom with a lot on her plate. A mom who’s making sure the bills get paid, the checkbook is balanced, and the house is in order. The type of mom for Homegrown that will call you on your shit if you show your ass. In fact, during our interview, she spoke of sometimes having to check Nic when his ego puffs up a bit too much.
Nic Hagen in the Homegrown kitchen
Not much has come easy for the Hagen’s. Just getting Homegrown up and running in the first place was a bit more trying than the already super involved process of opening a restaurant. Before Homegrown, they worked as employees for the previous restaurant in the same location, Segundo. They initially attempted to buy the business from the owner when business was rocky, but that fell through. Hope, however, found out the lease had expired and she and Nic realized they had the chance to get the lease themselves.
Hope Hagen at the Homegrown bar
So they took most of their savings and put that into the building. From pouring concrete to rebuilding the kitchen to building tables, side by side, the Hagen’s hands were in it from the ground up. Their D.I.Y. (do it yourself) approach to Homegrown started defining them from the first day and continues to the present. From the patio benches, which Nic made himself, to the house-made jars of pickled bites that adorn the wine vault and bar, it feels like a home there because their restaurant is a continuation of the approach to life they both share.
For Nic, as he put it, “There wouldn’t be a Homegrown without Hope”. In terms of substantial local sourcing and a gift for making those ingredients shine, if there wasn’t a Nic, the bar in Olde Towne would be considerably lower. It’s a restaurant that I hope breaks through. It’s a restaurant that deserves respect.
For more on Homegrown visit them online HERE
Visit their facebook HERE
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****Post print publication update****
After the formation of this article, Nic and Hope decided to begin the process of separation. Still attending functions publicly and remaining friends, Hope, according to the couple, is still around 10% involved in the business at Homegrown. She works with payroll and other consulting elements. Hope newly began promotion for Waterside Live and Nic jokingly told me, “You can put [that] I am looking for team members.”
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