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Frankenstein Four Course (Norfolk)

By Southern Grit · On January 11, 2016


Illustration and photos by Fitz

Article by Fitz, Chris Fellini, Wade A. Hunter and Nadira

Norfolk has become the city for dining out in Hampton Roads. The roster of forward-thinking chefs continues to grow. Hledik at Saint Germain, Estero at Nouvelle, Corrie at Chartreuse, Marsh at LeGrand, Hannah at Press, Ordonez at Alkaline: just a few that come to mind. Then there is the entrepreneurial team of Hausmann and Porter who with Handsome Biscuit, Field Guide and Toast have enticed the belly of many a Millennial. Want a dope burger? Kiss the ring of Sums and company at 80/20. Want actual authentic Mexican? Hit up Jessy’s. How about amazing Middle-Eastern street food? Mr. Shawarma has you covered. Soul Food ― say hi to my boy Mo at My Mama’s Kitchen. Got a hankering for some of the best bread of your life, like, “carbicide” inducing?- hit up The Bakehouse in Chelsea. It’s an exciting time for food in the city I love and it got me thinking. If I had to pick four courses in Norfolk, forget cohesion, just my favorite four courses- a salad, app, main, and dessert what would this “Frankenstein Four Course” look like? I posed this question to the mag’s main contributors, the only criteria being that the dishes picked must be permanent menu items. After much debate we rigorously decided on the following…

Salad– No Frill’s Teriyaki & Sesame Grilled Tuna Salad:

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Heavyweight comic John Pinette used to say: “Salad isn’t food. Salad comes with the food. Salad is a promissory note that food will soon arrive. There is no joy in salad!” Well, here is a salad that endeavors to be much much more! Perfectly seared thick slices of yellow fin tuna in a sweet sesame marinade blend effortlessly with black bean salsa stacked on mounds of fresh greens! It’s “food” alright, and damn filling!  -Fitz

Salad runners up worth mention-

Goat Cheese & Carmelized Walnut Salad by Ten Top *Fellini

Greek Salad by Fellini’s Restaurant *Wade

House Salad by Rajput *Nadira

 

Appetizer– La Bella’s Involtini di Melanzane:

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An appetizer should be the essence of flavor, but keep you salivating for the main. The Involtini di Melanzane from La Bella in Ghent is just that. It hits all the flavor notes. The eggplant is rich and buttery, the cheese mixture is both creamy and salty, and c’mon, who doesn’t love red sauce. Fresh from the oven, this is guaranteed to warm you up in the winter. There’s enough to share with a partner, but you won’t want to. -Fellini

Appetizer runners up worth mention-

Fried Pickles by Grilled Cheese Bistro *Nadira

Pig’s Ears Chicaronne by Saint Germain *Fitz

Bagoong Fried Rice by Alkaline *Wade

 

Main Course– Saint Germain’s Beef Wellington:

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Not since feeding on exotic birds while lounging on early Roman triclinia has there been a dish of such unmitigated decadence as that of the beef wellington; a darling of modern midcentury menus, with many heads of state―from Nixon to Churchill―finding it a regular favorite. There couldn’t be a better choice for a communal course at Saint Germain (a place whose environment and very name evokes a rich mystic history). Harkening back to 17th century French sensibilities, a seventeen ounce beef tenderloin is cooked rare and enveloped with local Surryano ham, mushroom duxelles, and a pastry crust, then baked to golden perfection. Served with a sauce Madeira, the filet itself is enough to serve two to four.

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Wade A. Hunter (center) with Kyle and Tristan at Saint Germain

It also comes with decadent accouterments such as the perfectly roasted cipollini onions, trumpet mushrooms, and smoked puree pommes. Enjoy this with the darkest red wine that can be mustered (in a goblet, of course) for the fully regal, Henry VIII-esque experience. A better main course could not be had in Norfolk. -Hunter

Main Course runners up worth mention-

Korma Curry Chicken by Saffron *Fellini

Chicken Provencal by Nouvelle *Nadira

Curry Goat by Island Krave *Fitz

 

Dessert– Azars Flowerless Chocolate Cake:

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Amidst Norfolk’s burgeoning gastronomy scene sits Azars. It’s an unpretentious café that offers a consistent menu of standard Middle Eastern staples. Beyond the falafel and shawarma there is a dessert case full of delicious sweet treats. The flourless chocolate cake rounds out this Franken-meal with its eloquent simplicity. Fudgy, full of chocolate and straightforward it is all business. A chocolate bar without the nuts, nugget or non- sense. Pair with wine or Turkish coffee and it‘s bliss. -Nadira

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Nadira outside of Azars

Dessert runners up worth mention-

Coffee Orb/ Cotton Candy/ Honey Comb “Nest” by Saint Germain *Fitz

Lemon Curd Waffle by Waffletina *Wade

Bread Pudding by Nouvelle *Fellini

 

For more on No Frill visit them HERE

For more on La Bella visit them HERE 

For more on Saint Germain visit them HERE 

For more on Azars visit them HERE

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Southern Grit is a food publication based in Virginia and aims to open up an honest dialogue about food in the south. Each issue is themed, but don’t expect the usual recipes and reviews. Everyone eats and everyone has a lot to say about food. Join us in the conversation.

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