Part Two of A Four Part Series
Article by Wade A. Hunter
(Lead photo- Nouvelle’s 50/50 Burger)
Photo by Alvin L. Tatum
I’ve been told that all chefs love a good burger. This it assuredly true of Sous Chef Jon Scheidt; the one at Nouvelle, still his all-time favorite anywhere, was the coup de grâce on a weighty list of reasons when deciding work there for him. Owners Rina Estero and Luke Brigham have ushered a vibrant yet tempered menu filled with filigree-laden French inspired dishes in this intimate and rather humble environment; a tiny building dwarfed by its own parking lot and nestled between the titan monoliths of downtown Norfolk, where one can find Estero and co. running their respective ‘shows’ (who you get depends on the day) with their small, bar-enclosed kitchen. Open air kitchens, having a forlorn history in diners and soda shops of the midcentury, are finding an uncommon adoption from some of the more innovative quality eateries in the area, such as LeGrand kitchen. In such a restaurant, where the insular wall between galley and dining room is removed and the back of the house is laid bare in front of the customer, common demarcations are all but destroyed, often leaving chefs little privacy to be themselves, with little room for even a grimace without concerns for public relations. Not so with Nouvelle; the dining room is the kitchen, and you are an unwitting participant in your own meal. It’s awfully charming.
Maybe this colored my experience at Nouvelle, but one would be mistaken to think the lamb and beef burger offered therein is nothing short of a red meat wonder. Significant in portions, ingredients come together with the signature flair to be expected there: curly-q’s of perfectly caramelized onions peer enticingly beneath a brioche bun cap; a patty otherwise smothered with a Gouda/Gruyere mix; coolly crispy and contrasting tomato and lettuce with thick cut bacon; and all brought together with a creamy chive aioli. As I watched Scheidt assemble this ‘beaut’ before me, he decided to throw an extra dash of awesome byway of a minor dusting of home smoked paprika. The burger was of stately height and I’m not too proud admitting of having to unhinge my jaw “like a black snake eating an egg out of a hen house,” as writer Mike Wingfield expertly put it. There was something hedonistically satisfying about destroying all that gorgeous presentation with my face, juices dripping on top of those perfectly cooked pomme frites. It’s worth noting an unassuming degree of exceptionalism when it comes to the ketchup, which is house made and has an alluring unquantifiable flavor to it that is quite addictive (especially with a little fancy sauce mixed in).
By the time I finished the burger, I started coming down with a case of the ‘horizontals’. I knew then I probably should have called it a day, but against my better judgement had some of the best damn bread pudding I think has ever graced my taste buds, pushing me into a short lived coma. Best writ of advice to those weary travelers making a stop at Nouvelle ― enjoy the banter and the coziness, but bring a designated salad eater if driving home after; this burger will knock you on your ass..
See the coming print edition of Southern Grit for part 3 and 4 of this series as we run down the much debated LeGrand Burger and the in house made Pendulum Cafe Burger
For more on Nouvelle Restaurant visit their facebook HERE
For Part 1 of the “Norfolk Artisan Burger Boom” series featuring Saint Germain’s “Bar Burger” click HERE
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