Hampton Roads Hidden Gem Sam’s Stop ‘N Shop
Article by Wade A. Hunter
Photography by Alvin Tatum A. Tatum Photography
Above: Fry cook Amy
My summer was in full swing. After a quick stop to drop off a few Southern Grit Edition 002’s around the NEON District, S. G. editor Fitz and I went to investigate an unlikely lead for a hidden gem, sequestered away behind the counter of a gas station on the edge of South Norfolk and Chesapeake. This was promised to be the good stuff – none of that cut-with-garbage homogenized fast food crap, nor the gentrified ‘fancy’ offerings with a side of grandiloquent pomp; some true-to-life fried chicken. Hopefully this wouldn’t be like the listeria-licious travesty that is Dodge’s Chicken.
The gas station itself was surrounded by dilapidated homes and cracked sidewalks: a foreclosed house spit forth the innards of someone’s life onto the street, seen past the puddles of humid mirage. The place was unpresumptuous and forgettable from the facade, A still well kempt gas station from whilom times.
Entering the shop left an all-too-familiar tinge of country convenience store, with rows of goods and sugary treats available for purchase. The only outlier (aside from a serious lack of trucker hats and NASCAR-themed big gulps), adjacent to the check-out counter, was a large glass enclosure filled with goodness gilded by the light of a heat lamp. We’re taking crispy chicken galore, half-cut and breaded potatoes, and freaking chicken fried pork chops. The scent alone induced a rise in cholesterol. After the kind ladies at the counter aided us in selecting a thigh and a chop, and a quick trip to the hot sauce bar, we were good to go.
Above: Owner Brian with customers
A miracle was beheld on the bird-crap painted trunk of Fitz’s beater: sweat beading and stinging the eyes, oppressive noon heat and wafting petrol fumes of the pumps, greasy fingers handling fried chicken sparkling – no, scintillating – in the sun like tide-washed seashells after the BP oilspill; all succulent, pinguid, flavorful, familiar.
It was a thing of unassuming beauty where the meat itself was the taste brought forth in minimalistic order, with the spices only complementing, not competing with, the flavor. In a follow-up, owner Brian admitted it was a secret family spice recipe that gave the flavor it’s distinct characteristics. Aside from that, this grounded transplant from Kentucky states that pressure frying in soy oil (I was convinced it was peanut, or even shortening) only adds to the delectability. I have to say, the chicken is tantamount to some of the best I’ve ever had.
Sam’s Stop ‘N Shop is located on 1235 Bainbridge Blvd, Chesapeake, VA.
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