Norfolk’s Artisan Burger Boom Part 1: The Saint Germain Bar Burger

A Four Part series (lead photo- The Saint Germain Bar Burger)

Article and photo by Fitz

“New school” ― I am reluctant to say that this should be the description for what is currently happening with dining in Norfolk, but for all intents and purposes that phrase may be the best. When I talk to people about eating out in my city these days, as soon as that term passes my lips, I cringe. It makes me think of another creative field ― music ― and the negative context around the similar and all-too-familiar expression “nu metal” etched in the vocabulary of early-30s metal heads ― of which I am now a reluctant member. There may be no better way to describe what’s currently going on around here, however. In the last two years we have seen the rise of a new crop of chefs and restaurants that, due to their inventive and progressive menus, expose just how boring and dated established dinosaurs like the Freemason Abbey, Todd Jurich’s Bistro, and others which were defining of fine dining around here truly are. Chef Steve Marsh at LeGrand Kitchen; Chef Rina Estero at Nouvelle Restaurant; Chef Kevin Ordonez at Alkaline; Chef Christopher Corrie at Chartreuse; or Chef David Hledik at Saint Germain: from them you will never see a bullshit “award winning” she crab soup on the menu, nor will you see white hats scurrying and jostling in line to fire up a saucer disk creme brûlée. Instead what you will discover from these “new school” chefs are autobiographical dishes which result in inspired menus, often featuring twists and/or reinventions of tried-and-true staples. As a direct result, Norfolk recently has become THE place to get several delicious artisan style burgers. The following four-part series will be a rundown of four of the these burgers which can only be had in Norfolk by some of the trend setting chefs aforementioned.

Part One- The Saint Germain Bar Burger

This primal, bone marrow drenched burger is the newest bad boy of the bunch. Having just debuted recently, it’s another bold offering by the New Orleans transplant, Chef David Hledik. I would expect no less than this carnivore-lovers burger (this from the man who is on a mission to popularize pig ears and African blood sausage), on Granby Street in downtown. Topped with short rib, tomato aioli, aged Gouda, and an onion jam, which when paired with the marrow, brings forth one hell of a sweet and savory punch, it’s the type of burger that would bring a tear to the eye of Ted Nugent faster than when the (AWB) Federal Assault Weapons ban expired. Surprisingly, however, the Saint Germain Bar Burger is restrained in size and weight in comparison to some of the other burgers we will be discussing. Don’t get me wrong ― it is ample size, just not so huge that one can’t also finish the taro root fries, accompanied by a saffron ketchup, served with it.

Hledik and Saint Germain stand for what is possible for dining out in Hampton Roads now. From endeavors into molecular gastronomy, to inspired dessert deconstructions, or even charcuterie spreads that would make a studied butcher envious, it’s one of the most exciting dining experiences to be found in Norfolk. As we continue to cast off the yawn-inducing blandness of the “fine dining” institutions of yesteryear (which are often draped in red “best of banners” doled out more liberally than Facebook band show invites), it will be chefs like Hledik true foodies will galvanize behind.

Keep an eye out in the coming days for part 2 as we give you the rundown on Nouvelle’s deluxe size 50/50 Lamb & Beef Burger.

For more on Saint Germain visit their website HERE