Article and interview by Shannon Cruse Ranson
Photography by Joshua Fitzwater
A satisfying meal isn’t complete without a scrumptious dessert, and some days all you need is a good slice of cake or a comforting chunk of chocolate to bring you back to center. Pastry Chefs Gina Marie Smith of Harper’s Table (Suffolk) and Brittany Medina of Todd Jurich’s Bistro (Norfolk) have the talent and ingenuity to indulge your cravings with their delightful desserts. These “Queens of Confection” have translated their passion for all things sweet into blossoming careers at two of the region’s best restaurants. They may work with sugar, but they often feel the heat in the kitchen.
Gina Marie Smith
Southern Grit: When did you fall in love with desserts?
Gina Marie Smith: When I was quite small. I fondly remember my grandmother would make a huge spread for dinner, which included several desserts. I would always wait for her amazing apple pie-my favorite! I began to bake on my own, growing up, but really stepped up my efforts after I got married. I would go through tons of baking cookbooks and try almost anything.
Brittany Medina: My mom loves to bake, and even though she’s a “Duncan Hines” type of housewife, she definitely inspired my love of sweets. We used to bake a few times a week-cookies, muffins, brownies, and cakes.
SG: Where did you receive your training?
GMS: Art Institute of Virginia Beach. That’s where I learned all the techniques and more challenging things that I would never gain from self-teaching through a book.
BM: Lincoln Culinary Institute in Hartford, CT.
SG: Would you like to train anywhere else in the future?
GMS: I wish for the opportunity to have a fellowship in France for a few months to study at a bread bakery or patisserie.
BM: I’d like to pursue more education in the hospitality industry to develop an under- standing of the business side of the industry I love so much.
Medina breaking eggs for potato buns
SG: Who or where are you inspired by?
GMS: I am all about French cuisine and style. J’adore the way that they have such refinement with desserts that you don’t see often enough in this region.
BM: I am a New York girl, born-and-raised. My culinary style will always take me back to New York. There is nothing like it. After all, no one raves about Virginia’s bagels and pizza. Thomas Keller is a chef I look up to. I worked at his bakery, Bouchon, in New York City.
SG: What’s your advice for the at-home baker?
GMS: It’s always a good investment to have a Kitchen Aid stand mixer and Silpats (non-stick baking mats). Those two items are gold to me. Baking is a science. You must be exact with ingredients or it ends in disaster. Tap and level your measurements!
BM: Don’t be afraid. Try new things. Go outside your comfort zone with food. Explore the culinary styles of the world.
SG: What’s the best part about being a female chef in the restaurant industry?
GMS: Well, there aren’t too many of us in this industry. Typically, women in the “Back of House” (BOH) are perceived as not being able to handle the heat, which is totally untrue. I think female chefs add a little finesse in this industry where men sometimes lack. I can hang with most of them and maintain my sense of flair.
BM: The best thing about being a female pastry chef in the restaurant industry is the journey-the exploring of new ingredients, ideas, executing of plating, and trying new things. I’m forever learning and growing, every day.
SG: …and the worst part?
GMS: I feel like I have to constantly bring my A+ game every day or my abilities could be questioned. Women in the BOH have to work a little harder to shine because there are so many quality male chefs out there.
BM: The restaurant industry is a “man’s world,” so women have big shoes to fill and must always be able to keep up with “the boys.” We can never show weakness in any way. We are so harshly criticized, talked down to, and often picked on. That “tough love” makes us stronger. Some of the toughest women I’ve met in my life have been chefs.
Medina torching the creme brulee
SG: How has your experience working in the 757 been thus far?
GMS: Working in Hampton Roads has definitely been interesting. From bakeries to restaurants in Suffolk all the way to Williamsburg, I’ve come to see so many perspectives and made connections with such great chefs. Even though Hampton Roads isn’t going to be where I stay long term, I can definitely say that it’s a place that has made quite a mark in my career. I’ve had overwhelming support from family and friends, and I am truly humbled.
BM: Coming from New York to Virginia was almost a shock for me. I’m used to the hustle and bustle of New York. The lifestyle and atmosphere are completely different here, but I’ve grown to love the Southern charm and friendly people. It’s a change that I embrace.
SG: Lastly, we’re dying to know: what is your favorite kind of cookie?
GMS: A Macaron (French Macaroon), an almond flour and meringue based cookie that can have any sort of filling between the two shells/cookies. The flavor poss- ibilities are endless! It is an obsession of mine. I’ve worked hard on perfecting the recipe.
BM: Traditional Italian Rainbow Cookies (tri-color stacked almond sponge cake with apricot jam, enrobed in chocolate). Tastes like home.
Todd Jurich’s Bistro is located at 150 W Main St, Norfolk
Harper’s Table is located at 122 N Main St, Suffolk
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