Article and photography by Joshua Fitzwater
Lead photo: Redemption BBQ and Market’s chef and owner, John Vest holding Autumn Olive Farms pork
To be a man of God, to walk a righteous path and embrace a lifestyle of service under a power greater than oneself takes a particular kind of man. A special man. Some men profess to hear the calling. Many nonetheless fall short. And many were charlatans from the beginning.
n John Vest’s case, he has proven to be a man capable of traversing such a trail. Simply ask his former youth congregation at The Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago. Most Richmonders however, believers and non alike, don’t know him in a spiritual context. At least not that of the supernatural sort. Instead, they know Reverend Dr. Porkchop for his other two devotions. That of wielding fire and local sustainability. Both fully possess his barbecue.
In terms of Virginia barbecue restaurant owners, Vest is one of the most persuasive preachers of America’s barbecue origin story, as it was born in the Old Dominion. His barbecue blog, and more importantly, his menu testify to it. Vest touts barbecue sauces like his Commonwealth sauce, which is a personal culinary riff on an old Virginia barbecue sauce recipe that predates the recognition of leading barbecue scenes in most other Southern states. This sauce, combined with his barbecue and house-made slaw on a toasted bun, is a revelation and one of the better tasting barbecue sandwiches to be found in all of the commonwealth.
Clockwise: Saucing minced pork, barbecued pork shoulder sandwich, house-made sauces and mac and cheese made with local dairy
Vest’s devotion to Virginia barbecue was obtained through research and experience; however, he is a convert. Originally growing up in Niceville Florida, Vest’s first foray into barbecue happened in Chicago when Pastor Vest did large fundraising barbecues for his church community there. Inquisitive by nature and with a hunger for barbecue knowledge, Vest made pilgrimages to North Carolina, Memphis and Kansas City to take in the spirit of those barbecue scenes. He also made his way to Baltimore, Maryland and immediately discovered an appreciation for pit beef.
It wasn’t until 2015 that a Virginia barbecue awaking filled his soul. Vest, in the commonwealth on a four year visiting professorship for Union Presbyterian Seminary, wanted to understand Virginia’s barbecue traditions and scene. He credits the writing of author Joseph R Haynes of Virginia Barbecue: A History as an influence, as well as an even deeper connection to author Joel Salatin’s writing and work with regenerative farming and local sustainability at Polyface Farm in the Shenandoah Valley region of Virginia. Quickly, Vest started to make waves taking his barbecue to the streets by way of the food truck he opened in the fall of 2016. After putting in some serious miles the next few years and sharing his sermon of smoke around Richmond, Vest opened his brick and mortar in the Short Pump area of Richmond in January of 2022.
With a barbecue menu that both reflects his travels and his Virginia barbecue research, it stands out in a market often dominated by Texas and North Carolina style restaurants. Couple that with Vest’s devotion to local sourcing, and it’s hard to find a fresher regional menu. More and more these days, those that happen into Redemption BBQ leave converted to the power of Virginia barbecue. When done right, like Vest does it, it is nothing short of a revelation.
For more on Redemption BBQ and Market, visit RedemptionBBQ.com
Vested Interest: The Prophecy of Reverend Dr. Porkchop was originally published in the 016 print edition of Southern Grit Magazine. For select back issues of the magazine, visit southerngritmagazine.bigcartel.com
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